Rishikesh

Since we had a long ride to Himachal Pradesh we decided it would be nice to break it up a little and spend a few days in Rishikesh for a personal vacation. It was an amazing five days spent in the valley along the holy Ganges River. It was a different experience to be in a place with no responsibilities, but came at the perfect time since for the two weeks in Bene Ephriam we didn't have the chance to leave the house too much.

The beautiful spirit of Rishikesh and the Ganges is powerful, defiantly on my list of places to return some day. In addition to just enjoying chai, company of fellow travelers and the views from the many cafes on the river side we went for a waterfall hike, white water river rafting, watched the daily puja (prayers) and bathed in the Ganges.

Bene Ephriam

Though I loved Sadhana Forest, it was part of an international community and never felt like ‘real India’ to me. For our second project we headed northeast to the state of Andra Pradesh and the district of Guntur. There we lived for two weeks in a Madiga village. The village was made up of the Dalit class, which is the lowest class of India, also known as the Untouchables. It was most certainly real India.Within the Madiga community we were part of the Bene Ephriam, a Jewish community. We stayed with the Yacobi family at their home/synagogue/community center. 

Local women on their way home from working in the fields all day

When I first arrived I had mix feelings about our project. Our aim was to design and implement a community survey to try to understand the community to help create a future project they want and need. This bothered me for several reasons, first off who were we to show up for a few weeks and decided what project they should do. Secondly a survey isn’t doing anything active to actually help the community while we are there, it is just getting their hopes up for something that may or may not happen in the future.  But in the end I think it was a valuable exercise and we actually learned a lot about the community, their needs and hopes for the future. Not to mention the amazing friendships that were created between two different cultures.  

LeadEarth team and Yachobi family

We were also asked by another NGO, Kulanu, to check up on previous projects they had funded in the community. They had given $1500 the support 10 families to purchase chickens. They hadn’t visited the community since the money had been sent and were interested in hearing how it went. We visited almost all the houses who bought chickens and attempted to help them determine if the project was actually cost effective. It is difficult to determine this for several reasons, first off the chickens were only purchased a few months ago so they haven’t really started producing many chicks, especially ones old enough to sell. Secondly they don’t keep track of how much they spend on food and other expenses. But mostly because every time we would ask the same question, but get different answers. One day a chicken cost 200 rupees to buy, and the same chicken the next day might be 300 rupees. But all in all we were able to gather the information Kulanu requested. It’s still difficult to determine if the project is cost effective, in our opinion it’s not the best project for long term growth and financial independence of the community. But it was a valuable experience to see what kind of projects are being funded by NGOs in attempt to help lessen inequaities in third world countries and the steps and process that is affiliated with donations. Kulanu also sponsored several buffalos for the community as well as a good amount of bicycles for students to get to school with. They also gave us a grant to install solar panels during our visit.

The solar panel grant idea was established by our facilitator before we left for India. We spent quite a few hours discussing if we wanted to go through with the idea. The synagogue/Yacobi home/community center had power already and solar panels are expensive. We thought that given the situation the money could be of more use towards another project. In the end we decided to go through with it since we already had the grant approved and use it as a tool for environmental education, teaching the whole community about solar energy and why it’s important. We also wanted to leave something with the community when we left, to feel like we made some sort of contribution in addition to the surveys. And we thought that since the Yachobi’s supply power for the community center it could help with electric costs. The lights weren’t exactly as we imagined, we were told they would easily light a 20 by 20 foot room, but they turned out to be more like emergency lights. It was quiet exciting when we were making chapattis on one of our last nights and experienced a power cut but were able to quickly switch on the solar lights and finish cooking dinner! It’s hard to tell if they will be used instead of their regular lights but will certain come in handy during any of the many power cuts.

Installing the solar panels

Teaching about solar power

As requested (and funded) by Kulanu we also helped set up internet at the home. This was in hopes that Kulano and the Yacobis could be in touch more easily via e-mail and skype to discuss the projects they are funding. Kulanu is really interested in teach them skills to tract and monitor the projects themselves and determine if they are working or not. Hopefully they will also use the internet to keep in touch with us!

The most rewarding part of our time in Andra Pradesh was the daily interaction with the Yachobi’s and community. It was an emotion goodbye after two short weeks we already were calling them Ima and Aba (mother and father) and dreaming of the next time we will be able to travel back and visit. For a community that has very little according to western standards, they gave so much. They happily hosted five strangers, feeding us (too much) delicious food. Chapatis (Indian bread) everyday, even though they would usually only cook them once a week. Ima even gave all the girls Shalware Kameez to wear one day and was offended when we wouldn’t keep them (2000 rupees worth of clothes). During our survey we asked about what people would do with extra money if they had any, almost every person responded without hesitation to give it to someone who needed it, and they meant it.

Jobi, Marianne, Maya and in our shalwar kameez

I was able to learn about Indian culture and myself and am so thankful for such a unique experience. I was sad to leave the family, but left inspired to do more to help such wonderful people who taught me so much. 

One big family

New friends

Ryan

It was past 11 pm, I knew I had to get up at 5:30am the next day but I couldn’t tear myself away from the music and dancing. It was march 3^rd, a Wednesday which is open stage night at Sadhana. As the performers finished and volunteers trickled off to bed a small group was left playing the drums, guitar, singing and dancing. I was loving it. I was starting to feel a little more comfortable at Sadhana and really embracing all the happiness and love of the community. Ahuva (our group leader at the time) called me over and told me she got an e-mail from my mom and that she thinks I should call Jill. It seemed like a very strange message and I  immediately assumed something happened to Jills family so I called my mom on skype. It only took a few words to completely change my life.

One of my closest friends, Ryan Hawks, had died three days earlier in a skiing accident. Because I was enjoying my time in a new place I had had no desire to check my e-mail, so I missed the e-mails from friends trying to get in touch with me. All of a sudden I was lost, minutes before I was embracing the love of community and suddenly I felt so alone. It was unbelievable really, impossible to fully comprehend. I was hundreds of miles away, in a whole different world. How could something like that really happen, how could it happen to the most amazing guy I know? I was so thankful to have a few good friends from LeadEarth that were there for me, but it wasn’t the same. They didn’t know Ryan, I couldn’t talk let alone try to explain how special he is. For the next day I was lost, not wanting to believe, not knowing what to do. I tried to keep busy by attempting to work, it didn’t help. I wanted to run and hide, I wanted to go back in time.

Due to the fact that it was already four days after he had passed away, and that had just arrived at Sadhana and the vast distance and costs to get home it I didn’t even think it would be an option to fly home. But when Marianne and Maya asked if I wanted to go home, I said yes of course I just didn’t think it was possible. After a few early morning eastern standard time phone calls home I determined that my parents would pay the costs and that the service was scheduled for Saturday. I was a wreck and couldn’t function properly but Marianne and Maya planned everything for me. Buying my plane ticket, letting me borrow money when I forgot my pin number (which has been the same for the past 4 years),  they even rode the 3 ½ hour bus ride to the Chennai airport at 9pm so I could catch my 2:30am flight to Dubai, then NY then Burlington Vermont. I can’t express how thankful I am for their love and support, I know that I wouldn’t have made it home without them. It was by far the hardest time of my life and even though I only knew them for one month they took care of me like family.

For the next few weeks (and still sometimes now) I felt as though I was in an alternate reality. Going from Sadhana Forest, a sustainable community in India, back to the winter of Vermont to mourn and celebrate the life of someone I love so much was intense to say the least.  But I am forever grateful that I had the opportunity to go back to VT to be with friends and family.

I am not going to go into too many details of my time home other than it was a really important time in my life. It was a life changing opportunity to be able to share the grief and the love of Ryan with friends and his family at such a time. He is an incredible guy, words really don’t do him justice. Though Ryan and I were only close for the past few years, I feel so so lucky that I was able to share such a special relationship with him. I have not lost Ryan, there is no hole in my heart where he once was. He will forever be a part of who I am. Ryan changed my life by showing me love. Though he died far too young, he lived his life to the fullest every single day. His compassion, kindness and unwavering positive attitude radiated through any room in entered.

I will never understand or stop mourning his death, but like Ryan would have done I will see the positive in the worst. After seeing how hundreds of people were affected by the genuine compassion Ryan had it made me realize that to make a positive impact in the world I don’t need to travel around trying to end poverty or stop global warming. Ryan changed the world just by being himself. I can easily say that I am a better person for knowing him. I will take his compassion, kindness, happiness, joy, adventurousness, smile, laugh, heart, curiosity, openness, friendliness, strength, determination, confidence everywhere I go. I don’t want to be Ryan, but I want to be the best me I can just like he would have wanted. His death helped put life in perspective, and though I would do anything to have him back again, all I can do is move forward with his spirit by my side. 

Sadhana Forest

My first project with LeadEarth was volunteering with an ecological community that focuses on reforestation and water conservation in Tamil Nadu, South India. I knew very little about Sadhana Forest going into the project and had no expectations; it turned out to be one of the most wonderful places I have lived. Sadhana Forest is one of the many communities in Auroville, the same city where my brother Aaron had studied abroad (and my family visited) five years ago. It began in December of 2003 with the goal to transform 70 acres of severely eroded, arid land on the outskirts of Auroville, into a vibrant, indigenous Tropical Dry Evergreen Forest and to spread knowledge about sustainable living through human unity. After spending a few days in the bustling city of Mumbai arriving to such a peaceful and beautiful atmosphere was just what I needed.

A few of the many faces of Sadhana

When I first arrived the community was up to around 120 volunteers from all over the world. In the busy season volunteers are requested to stay one month, in the summer and monsoon seasons only two weeks. Since it is run by volunteers the only costs are mainly infrastructure. The buildings are constructed with granite posts (locally mined without dynamite), local bamboo and eucalyptus trees and thatched roofs. They are beautifully constructed and designed to stay surprisingly cool in the southern heat.

Hut and solar panels at Sadhana Forest

At Sadhana there is even balance between work and play. Wake up call, which usually consisted of lovely singing and music, was at 5:30 am so we could try to get most of the hard work done before too much heat. First work was mainly working in the forest unless you had another weekly responsibility such as cooking breakfast or watering the garden. Breakfast was at 9, followed by second work at 10. Second work consists of the little responsibilities needed to keep Sadhana running smoothly.  Jobs such as hygiene, which means stirring the composing  toilets twice a day, emptying them if they are full and cleaning the bathrooms (not always the most popular job, but I did it for a week, and I never realized how heavy pooh was!). Some other jobs are sorting waste and recycling, checking the roofs for bees and termites, gardening, construction of beds and community infrastructure, cooking, cleaning communal buildings and more. Though these probably don't seem like any fun, I never found them too bad since you are almost always working with a great person. 12:45 was lunch and the afternoons were free.

Marianne watering plants for second work

Maya and Jobie cooking 

Each afternoon there would be two to four workshops available to all volunteers. These changed depending on the volunteers at the time. I was amazing at how many talented people came through Sadhana and offered to share with the community. Workshops included many different types of yoga, including a personal yoga practice of Astanga yoga which I have now been following every morning since the end of March. Others were permaculture, various art and spirituality and connectedness workshops, non-violet communication (NVC), how to make stuff awesome stuff out of waste, veganism, capoeira, African dance, vegan chocolate ball making and many more.

The reason I loved Sadhana so much was the experience of community. The visions of Sadhana Forest focus around reforestation, water conservation and educating about sustainability; none of which could happen without the energy and dedication of the volunteers. It was the most open and loving group of people I have been a part of, and I’m truly proud to say I was. There is defiantly something to be said about everyone sleeping together, waking up (very early) together, working together and eating together. That may sound like a little too much for some, but because there were so many of us you were constantly interacting with different people. I especially enjoyed getting to share every meal together (which were all vegan, non-processed and no sugar by the way). Instead of just feeling like volunteers that came and went I really felt like we were a family. If you get sick, there is always someone there to take care of you and be with you in the Healing Hut, or if you just need someone to talk with or escape on motor bikes into Auroville to get some ice cream and chocolate it’s easy to find a companion. After just three days of staying at Sadhana Forest I unexpectedly lost a best friend from University and had to return to Vermont for a week. Leaving my friends and returning to India was really hard, but I know that I was lucky to be able to return to such an environment like Sadhana Forest to help me get through the hardest time in my life.

View over Auroville

Living and working in a sustainable eco-community was extremely educational on many levels. I gained knowledge surrounding sustainability and the environment, but I also gained knowledge about myself. I was inspired by so many of the volunteers and what they had to share with the community and the world. I increased my awareness of my actions, myself and my role in communities and created a new sense of value for the importance of being a part of a collective people.

Motor bikes we rented for the month!

If anyone is interested in learning more please visit www.sadhanaforest.org. There you will also find a place to make donations; the energy at Sadhana is focused on their main goals and visions of sustainability and not fundraisings so every little donation is needed and helps so much!

Israel to Mumbai

After leaving Israel we crossed into Jordon to fly from Amman. Crossing the border we had the special (and surprise) opportunity to meet with the tourism police because our group facilitator had her Hebrew prayer book out in the immigration building. Sitting with 6 men smoking tobacco and drinking tea was a bit intimidating for a few moments, but after copying our passport information and asking a few questions we were quickly on our way again.

We headed to the Israeli embassy to meet with Merav Horsandi the head of political and press affairs.  There we were able to understand a little bit more about our run-in with the police. The police and security forces in Jordan have been trained to try to keep peaceful relations between Jordanians, Israelis and Palestinians but not all citizens feel this way. They were afraid that if we were in another part of Jordan and a citizen saw the Hebrew prayer book may cause harm to us. So it was merely a meeting for our own protection and the protection of Israel Jordan relations.

The meeting was very informative; I realized I know very little about Jordan. Out of the six million population about 1.5 million are foreigners, 60% of which are Palestinians. During the conflicts in 1948 and 1967 many Palestinians came to Jordan. In '48 many were granted citizenship, while in '67 many moved into refugee camps but not all were granted citizenship which still remains a problem today. Many Jordanians are afraid that Jordan will be considered a Palestinian country and are reluctant to grant citizenship to all. There are efforts between Israeli, Jordan and Palestine authorities to build a peace park on the border which is something I am interested in learning more about. In more recent and known news, Merav shared that though it was part of world news that Jordan dissolved their entire cabinet it was a very common practice which shocked few in Jordan. After the embassy we headed to the airport to fly to India! All in all it was a very short, yet interesting, visit to Jordan leaving me wanting to explore the country much more!

We arrived in Mumbai at 5am exhausted and with nowhere to go. Guesthouses don't generally accept new guests until at least 10am and we had no reservations, which usually are not possible to make or not reliable. Luckily we are Jewish and headed to the Mumbai Chabad house! They kindly accepted us at the early hour and we quickly feel asleep. Unfortunately we were not yet accustomed to 'India time,' how everything takes much longer than planned due to many unforeseeable circumstances along the way and the general laid back attitude and indifference of time by Indians. We did find a guest house and move our things in but we were one hour late for our appointment with the Israeli consulate general.  Because of our timing judgment we could only meet with Orna Sagiv for about 30 minutes for she was flying to Goa for a much deserved vacation with her family.

Orna is a very inspiring women. She deals mostly with trading, economic affairs and lifestyle and tourism. In 1992 when diplomatic relations between Israel and India began the balance of trade was 2 million, now it stands at around 4.8 billion and growing rapidly. There are about 5,000 Jews in India, half of which live in Mumbai and many many Israeli tourists. She was interested in traveling to the South where we were headed to volunteer to film Israeli volunteers. In most cases she tries not to bring any attention to projects initiated or funded by Israel as it will create much less of a chance they will be accepted. But she was interested in creating a better face for Israeli backpackers by showing that not all of them just do lots of drugs and haggle excessively over 50 Rupees ( a little over a dollar). Since there was only one Israeli in our group she didn’t come, but I'm sure she will have another chance.

Though it was a long and exhausting day I was so thankful to have the opportunity to meet with Orna. Our excitement of finally being in India triumphed over our lack of sleep and after the meeting we explored the streets of Mumbai, ending in Colobra the southern district where our guest house was. We had time for a quick rest and shower before heading out again to meet Sharon and Sharona. Sharon and Sharona, and there three beautiful daughters, are members of the Bene Israel Jewish community in Mumbai. I was especially excited to meet them as I had recently read about them in the memoir A Girl From Foreign by Sadia Shepard.  They were just as incredible, kind and smart as Sadia described in her book. In addition to a delicious meal, they shared with us a new documentary about their lives titled "Next Year in Bombay." We learned in more detail about the Jewish communities in India, and their hardships in teaching and learning Hebrew and Judaism. Many Indian Jews are not accepted by Israel is 'real Jews' and are not able to make Aliyah.  The Jewish population in India is not large, yet it is rich in history. And yet many, like Sharon and Sharona, dream of making a life in Israel. Though part of me understands why everyone is longing to live in 'their peoples land', part of me feels it is important for the culture and customs to remain in India.

Friday we continued to explore the city, mostly through finding the best and cheapest local foods. We explored some markets and stopped by the Gateway to India. Saul went to the Chabad house for a free Shabbat meal while the girls found more amazing Indian food. Afterwards we all met up with some of Sauls newly formed Jew friends, many part of JWS (Jewish World Service) and AJWS (American Jewish World Service). We were invited to a small post-meal party and were able to hear about some other amazing projects going on our India.

Saturday, after delicious Indian food of course, we decided to head to the big market place which in Delhi is called the bazaar. That is not the case in Mumbai and after 45 minute taxi ride we found ourselves at the Big Bazaar high end shopping mall. We quickly hoped on a bus and made up for our mistake by finding some green space in the city. We headed to the Hanging Gardens and had a great hill top view of the city and the Arabian Sea. Afterwards we wandered the streets trying to find the Ghandi Museum. It is important when asking directions in India to ask frequently and many different people. Also never ask "is the Ghandi museum this direction?", for they will usually just say yes. Indians do not want to disappoint and will always try to help, even if that means just pointing you in whatever direction they feel. We did find the museum which is the home from 1917 to 1934. It was so inspiring to be in the place that such an incredible unbelievable person once lived.

That evening was spent dancing the night away in Mumbai, which was really fun, but one of the last things I imagined doing my first weekend in India. We were able to get a feel for the upper class Mumbai lifestyle. Luckily I am a lady and was exempt from all cover charges which were way more than I would ever pay back in the USA. After the Blue Hawaiian bar closed one of our friends Saul met at Shabbat dinner had his driver take us the Hyde Hotel for the exclusive after hours party. I somehow forgot my mini skirt and heels and felt extremely under dressed at probably one of the nicest clubs I have ever been to, but loved every minute of it and had an amazing night just dancing the night away. Knowing that I was having just as much fun, probably more, being dressed in whatever I had thrown in my bag for backpacking India than the girls that spent hundreds on their almost nonexistent outfits make me quite happy actually.  

The following morning we headed to the JWS building to be with the 5-10 year old Hebrew Sunday school.  It was great to review some letters of the alphabet, as well as the pesach story. In the afternoon we walked among the many stands in the Dadar market and big surprise… had some more great Indian food! We headed back to the JWS building, which is located on a collage campus and spent the afternoon playing Frisbee and doing gymnastics and yoga- much needed before our 24 hour train ride to Chennai. Though we were just relaxing all day, with a little bit of miscommunication we still managed to almost miss our train. We arrived nice and sweaty 3 minutes before departure. Thankful to be on the train we soon discovered that there had been some sort of mix up in our tickets and instead of each of us having a sleeper bed, we each needed to share a bed. To say the least it was a restless and long night but there was plenty more time to sleep during the day in the many unoccupied top beds. 

All in all we learned a lot about getting around in India in the first few days. We started to get used to India time and always give ourselves more than enough time to get somewhere, and the be ready for the unexpected and except it for what it is. Because after all, we were in India and that alone is amazing.

Note to Readers!

So I'm not the best 'blogger'. I left Israel on February 23^rd, well over a month ago and still have not shared a thing. There is so much I want to share but I struggle to put my thoughts and experiences into writing. Also I never seem to have the desire or energy to sit at a computer and write because I am doing so many incredible things and meeting so many amazing people… but I will do my best!

LeadEarth: The first 10 days

Sunday the 13^th began my 8 month adventure as a member of LeadEarth. LeadEarth is a program part of the Israeli NGO Adam Le’Adam leadership for Tikkum Olam. Adam Le’Adam translates to People to People in Hebrew, while Tikkum Olam as I interpreted as making the world a better place. The group includes myself, two other Americans one from Seattle (Jobie) and one actually born and raised in Maine until the age of 13 (Saul)! Marianne who is from Paraguay, but spent many years of her childhood living in Israel, and Maya who is from Israel.

But what am I actually doing for the next 8 months and why? I struggled to answer this question as “a program” was often not a sufficient answer. LeadEarth is a journey combined of personal growth, learning and volunteering. Over the next 8 months, myself and the four other participants will explore our strengths, weakness, dreams, and desires  while focusing on and expanding our leadership skills. I will learn to transfer my visions for the world into reality through learning more about myself, the world and project management. Combining self reflection, group support, discussions, workshops, meeting entrepreneurs, implementing projects and creating our own small projects will all be used to expand my knowledge to hopefully leave with the ability to design and implement a personal project of Tikkum Olam. LeadEarth has some structure, but much of the program is intentionally left open. Not that we don’t have lots of really exciting plans lined up, just that there is lots of room for flexibility based on where are interests and drive takes us.

For the first 10 days of the program we have been in Ani'am, located in the Golan Heights. The four other participants, our group facilitator and myself have been living on a small permaculture farm called Edanim. Edanim is run by Sophi, originally from the Soviet Union, she now has the dream of turning her farm, hopefully with our help, into an Eco-community center that teaches permaculture and sustainability to the local community, children, tourist and travelers. At first glance the farm could have the appearance of an over grown garden and old barn, but once you step inside the gate and begin to learn about permaculture its easy to see that Edanim is a sustainable safe haven. The building used to be a sheep barn, but has been turned into a living space/learning area/ workshop/mud house. Sophi’s resourcefulness amazes me on a daily basis. She closely follows the four ‘R’s’ of sustainability; Rethink, Reduce, Reuse, Recycle. Everything has a use, very little waste leaves Edanim, and very little supplies were bought to create the farm.

According to permaculture, everything should have at least three uses, and Sophi does her best to follow this practice. The garden is extremely diverse, including but not limited to; mint, lavender, sage, lemongrass (wonderful for fresh tea), bananas, avocados, oranges, pears, basil, eggplant, pumpkin, olives, lemons and pecans. The ground is covered with edible “weeds”, which taste great in stir fry salad or plain. The actual vegetable garden isn’t even functioning since Sophi decided not to plant it when the water price spontaneously went up 8 fold without notice and she was unsure how the winter rains would be.

While staying on the farm we have been helping with several small projects and hope to dig much deeper when we return and help turn Edanim into a well known eco center. We have also participated in some workshops surrounding composting, alternative energy, project management, the Golan Heights and wool. The five group members even organized our own chocolate making “workshop.” You can thank Maya for all the extremely delicious chocolate I plan on making as gifts once I return home J When it hasn’t being raining and cold (not complaining since 1-Israel needs the rain and 2-its going to be real hot for the next 8 months…) I have escaped on many great hikes exploring river valleys, waterfalls and the Israeli environment.

On Wednesday morning we leave for Jordon to spend the afternoon speaking with their Israeli consulate and flying out of Amman in the evening.  Thursday at 4:55am I will be in Mumbai India!!!!! Which is actually 1:25 am in Israel, Wednesday 6:25pm on Eastern time and 4:25pm Mountain Time.

The next three months in India will be a once in a life time experience. I hope to cherish and learn from everyday and every experience. We have a lot of really really exciting plans for India and I will try to share my experiences with you as often as possible. If I don’t update often lets hope it’s because I’m in building a compost system, putting together solar panels, organic farming or educating local school children about the environment and not stuck on the toilet. But please keep in touch and let me know how you are doing!