Israel to Mumbai

After leaving Israel we crossed into Jordon to fly from Amman. Crossing the border we had the special (and surprise) opportunity to meet with the tourism police because our group facilitator had her Hebrew prayer book out in the immigration building. Sitting with 6 men smoking tobacco and drinking tea was a bit intimidating for a few moments, but after copying our passport information and asking a few questions we were quickly on our way again.

We headed to the Israeli embassy to meet with Merav Horsandi the head of political and press affairs.  There we were able to understand a little bit more about our run-in with the police. The police and security forces in Jordan have been trained to try to keep peaceful relations between Jordanians, Israelis and Palestinians but not all citizens feel this way. They were afraid that if we were in another part of Jordan and a citizen saw the Hebrew prayer book may cause harm to us. So it was merely a meeting for our own protection and the protection of Israel Jordan relations.

The meeting was very informative; I realized I know very little about Jordan. Out of the six million population about 1.5 million are foreigners, 60% of which are Palestinians. During the conflicts in 1948 and 1967 many Palestinians came to Jordan. In '48 many were granted citizenship, while in '67 many moved into refugee camps but not all were granted citizenship which still remains a problem today. Many Jordanians are afraid that Jordan will be considered a Palestinian country and are reluctant to grant citizenship to all. There are efforts between Israeli, Jordan and Palestine authorities to build a peace park on the border which is something I am interested in learning more about. In more recent and known news, Merav shared that though it was part of world news that Jordan dissolved their entire cabinet it was a very common practice which shocked few in Jordan. After the embassy we headed to the airport to fly to India! All in all it was a very short, yet interesting, visit to Jordan leaving me wanting to explore the country much more!

We arrived in Mumbai at 5am exhausted and with nowhere to go. Guesthouses don't generally accept new guests until at least 10am and we had no reservations, which usually are not possible to make or not reliable. Luckily we are Jewish and headed to the Mumbai Chabad house! They kindly accepted us at the early hour and we quickly feel asleep. Unfortunately we were not yet accustomed to 'India time,' how everything takes much longer than planned due to many unforeseeable circumstances along the way and the general laid back attitude and indifference of time by Indians. We did find a guest house and move our things in but we were one hour late for our appointment with the Israeli consulate general.  Because of our timing judgment we could only meet with Orna Sagiv for about 30 minutes for she was flying to Goa for a much deserved vacation with her family.

Orna is a very inspiring women. She deals mostly with trading, economic affairs and lifestyle and tourism. In 1992 when diplomatic relations between Israel and India began the balance of trade was 2 million, now it stands at around 4.8 billion and growing rapidly. There are about 5,000 Jews in India, half of which live in Mumbai and many many Israeli tourists. She was interested in traveling to the South where we were headed to volunteer to film Israeli volunteers. In most cases she tries not to bring any attention to projects initiated or funded by Israel as it will create much less of a chance they will be accepted. But she was interested in creating a better face for Israeli backpackers by showing that not all of them just do lots of drugs and haggle excessively over 50 Rupees ( a little over a dollar). Since there was only one Israeli in our group she didn’t come, but I'm sure she will have another chance.

Though it was a long and exhausting day I was so thankful to have the opportunity to meet with Orna. Our excitement of finally being in India triumphed over our lack of sleep and after the meeting we explored the streets of Mumbai, ending in Colobra the southern district where our guest house was. We had time for a quick rest and shower before heading out again to meet Sharon and Sharona. Sharon and Sharona, and there three beautiful daughters, are members of the Bene Israel Jewish community in Mumbai. I was especially excited to meet them as I had recently read about them in the memoir A Girl From Foreign by Sadia Shepard.  They were just as incredible, kind and smart as Sadia described in her book. In addition to a delicious meal, they shared with us a new documentary about their lives titled "Next Year in Bombay." We learned in more detail about the Jewish communities in India, and their hardships in teaching and learning Hebrew and Judaism. Many Indian Jews are not accepted by Israel is 'real Jews' and are not able to make Aliyah.  The Jewish population in India is not large, yet it is rich in history. And yet many, like Sharon and Sharona, dream of making a life in Israel. Though part of me understands why everyone is longing to live in 'their peoples land', part of me feels it is important for the culture and customs to remain in India.

Friday we continued to explore the city, mostly through finding the best and cheapest local foods. We explored some markets and stopped by the Gateway to India. Saul went to the Chabad house for a free Shabbat meal while the girls found more amazing Indian food. Afterwards we all met up with some of Sauls newly formed Jew friends, many part of JWS (Jewish World Service) and AJWS (American Jewish World Service). We were invited to a small post-meal party and were able to hear about some other amazing projects going on our India.

Saturday, after delicious Indian food of course, we decided to head to the big market place which in Delhi is called the bazaar. That is not the case in Mumbai and after 45 minute taxi ride we found ourselves at the Big Bazaar high end shopping mall. We quickly hoped on a bus and made up for our mistake by finding some green space in the city. We headed to the Hanging Gardens and had a great hill top view of the city and the Arabian Sea. Afterwards we wandered the streets trying to find the Ghandi Museum. It is important when asking directions in India to ask frequently and many different people. Also never ask "is the Ghandi museum this direction?", for they will usually just say yes. Indians do not want to disappoint and will always try to help, even if that means just pointing you in whatever direction they feel. We did find the museum which is the home from 1917 to 1934. It was so inspiring to be in the place that such an incredible unbelievable person once lived.

That evening was spent dancing the night away in Mumbai, which was really fun, but one of the last things I imagined doing my first weekend in India. We were able to get a feel for the upper class Mumbai lifestyle. Luckily I am a lady and was exempt from all cover charges which were way more than I would ever pay back in the USA. After the Blue Hawaiian bar closed one of our friends Saul met at Shabbat dinner had his driver take us the Hyde Hotel for the exclusive after hours party. I somehow forgot my mini skirt and heels and felt extremely under dressed at probably one of the nicest clubs I have ever been to, but loved every minute of it and had an amazing night just dancing the night away. Knowing that I was having just as much fun, probably more, being dressed in whatever I had thrown in my bag for backpacking India than the girls that spent hundreds on their almost nonexistent outfits make me quite happy actually.  

The following morning we headed to the JWS building to be with the 5-10 year old Hebrew Sunday school.  It was great to review some letters of the alphabet, as well as the pesach story. In the afternoon we walked among the many stands in the Dadar market and big surprise… had some more great Indian food! We headed back to the JWS building, which is located on a collage campus and spent the afternoon playing Frisbee and doing gymnastics and yoga- much needed before our 24 hour train ride to Chennai. Though we were just relaxing all day, with a little bit of miscommunication we still managed to almost miss our train. We arrived nice and sweaty 3 minutes before departure. Thankful to be on the train we soon discovered that there had been some sort of mix up in our tickets and instead of each of us having a sleeper bed, we each needed to share a bed. To say the least it was a restless and long night but there was plenty more time to sleep during the day in the many unoccupied top beds. 

All in all we learned a lot about getting around in India in the first few days. We started to get used to India time and always give ourselves more than enough time to get somewhere, and the be ready for the unexpected and except it for what it is. Because after all, we were in India and that alone is amazing.

Note to Readers!

So I'm not the best 'blogger'. I left Israel on February 23^rd, well over a month ago and still have not shared a thing. There is so much I want to share but I struggle to put my thoughts and experiences into writing. Also I never seem to have the desire or energy to sit at a computer and write because I am doing so many incredible things and meeting so many amazing people… but I will do my best!

LeadEarth: The first 10 days

Sunday the 13^th began my 8 month adventure as a member of LeadEarth. LeadEarth is a program part of the Israeli NGO Adam Le’Adam leadership for Tikkum Olam. Adam Le’Adam translates to People to People in Hebrew, while Tikkum Olam as I interpreted as making the world a better place. The group includes myself, two other Americans one from Seattle (Jobie) and one actually born and raised in Maine until the age of 13 (Saul)! Marianne who is from Paraguay, but spent many years of her childhood living in Israel, and Maya who is from Israel.

But what am I actually doing for the next 8 months and why? I struggled to answer this question as “a program” was often not a sufficient answer. LeadEarth is a journey combined of personal growth, learning and volunteering. Over the next 8 months, myself and the four other participants will explore our strengths, weakness, dreams, and desires  while focusing on and expanding our leadership skills. I will learn to transfer my visions for the world into reality through learning more about myself, the world and project management. Combining self reflection, group support, discussions, workshops, meeting entrepreneurs, implementing projects and creating our own small projects will all be used to expand my knowledge to hopefully leave with the ability to design and implement a personal project of Tikkum Olam. LeadEarth has some structure, but much of the program is intentionally left open. Not that we don’t have lots of really exciting plans lined up, just that there is lots of room for flexibility based on where are interests and drive takes us.

For the first 10 days of the program we have been in Ani'am, located in the Golan Heights. The four other participants, our group facilitator and myself have been living on a small permaculture farm called Edanim. Edanim is run by Sophi, originally from the Soviet Union, she now has the dream of turning her farm, hopefully with our help, into an Eco-community center that teaches permaculture and sustainability to the local community, children, tourist and travelers. At first glance the farm could have the appearance of an over grown garden and old barn, but once you step inside the gate and begin to learn about permaculture its easy to see that Edanim is a sustainable safe haven. The building used to be a sheep barn, but has been turned into a living space/learning area/ workshop/mud house. Sophi’s resourcefulness amazes me on a daily basis. She closely follows the four ‘R’s’ of sustainability; Rethink, Reduce, Reuse, Recycle. Everything has a use, very little waste leaves Edanim, and very little supplies were bought to create the farm.

According to permaculture, everything should have at least three uses, and Sophi does her best to follow this practice. The garden is extremely diverse, including but not limited to; mint, lavender, sage, lemongrass (wonderful for fresh tea), bananas, avocados, oranges, pears, basil, eggplant, pumpkin, olives, lemons and pecans. The ground is covered with edible “weeds”, which taste great in stir fry salad or plain. The actual vegetable garden isn’t even functioning since Sophi decided not to plant it when the water price spontaneously went up 8 fold without notice and she was unsure how the winter rains would be.

While staying on the farm we have been helping with several small projects and hope to dig much deeper when we return and help turn Edanim into a well known eco center. We have also participated in some workshops surrounding composting, alternative energy, project management, the Golan Heights and wool. The five group members even organized our own chocolate making “workshop.” You can thank Maya for all the extremely delicious chocolate I plan on making as gifts once I return home J When it hasn’t being raining and cold (not complaining since 1-Israel needs the rain and 2-its going to be real hot for the next 8 months…) I have escaped on many great hikes exploring river valleys, waterfalls and the Israeli environment.

On Wednesday morning we leave for Jordon to spend the afternoon speaking with their Israeli consulate and flying out of Amman in the evening.  Thursday at 4:55am I will be in Mumbai India!!!!! Which is actually 1:25 am in Israel, Wednesday 6:25pm on Eastern time and 4:25pm Mountain Time.

The next three months in India will be a once in a life time experience. I hope to cherish and learn from everyday and every experience. We have a lot of really really exciting plans for India and I will try to share my experiences with you as often as possible. If I don’t update often lets hope it’s because I’m in building a compost system, putting together solar panels, organic farming or educating local school children about the environment and not stuck on the toilet. But please keep in touch and let me know how you are doing! 

Shalom Israel!

Shalom! Its hard to believe it has only been two weeks since I left the snow! And it’s even more crazy to think I’m leaving for India this Wednesday! It has been an incredible two weeks of connecting with family, childhood friends, making new friends and exploring Israel. 

I started out relaxing in Ramat Gan, a suburb of Tel Aviv, staying with Lancshu who recently moved from Montreal to Israel. As we walked on the beaches of the Mediterranean and I listened to stories of her struggles living in Israel when she was my age, it really hit me that I was actually in Israel, a very significant and special place of my family history.

I then hopped on a bus to the center of the world, Jerusalem. There I met up with Sadie, my best friend up until the age of 12 when she moved to Phoenix. Sadie now lives in Nachlaot, a unique community within Jerusalem.  I probably saw her two to three times within the last 12 years and we didn’t really keep in touch. At first, it was like meeting a new person, since pretty much nothing is the same as when we were 12, but pretty soon it felt like we had been friends all along, and I’m so thankful we have to opportunity to reconnect again. Together we visited the Shuk (open market) of Jerusalem, trying delicious Halva (sweet sesame), etrog juice, and warm pastries. The Shuk offers several streets full of most everything delicious including fresh fruits and vegetables, hummus, olives, fresh juices, candy and much much more.  We then explored the old city, winding our way down narrow streets to the Western Wall. Growing up I had read about the Kotel, but it had always just been a place in a far off land to me, something I might read about in stories.  But I wasn’t in a story book, I was suddenly standing where millions of people all of the world send their prayers. I could feel the history radiating from the ruin walls, though I don’t know even know a fraction of it. The energy was powerful. 

Birds perch on the same cracks millions slip their prayers into 

Holocaust Memorial Center in the Old City

My first Shabbat in Israel, one I don’t think I will ever forget, was spent with Sadie in Nachlaot Jerusalem. It was very joyous, intense, fun and overall a very special experience. Sadie answered my many questions of how to keep Sabbath properly, including not turning on or off lights, not ripping toilet paper, no cooking, no connecting circuits (electricity) and many more.

Before brining in the Sabbath we prepared all food for Saturday and cleaned since these actions are forbidden on the day of rest. Together we lit the candles and caught the end of services at a small Shul (Synagogue), I had forgotten that in religious Shuls women sit behind curtains and found this difficult to understand. It made me feel inferior as a women and appreciative for being raised in a very welcoming reform Synagogue. I was amazed as Sadie pointed out many buildings that appear to be just another old apartment in the city but are in fact Shuls. We then headed to her friends to begin the Shabbat bingeing. After blessing the wine, washing and bread we began the first course, which could be an entire meal in its self. But I wasn’t disappointed to be eating delicious challah, olives, salads, tahina, babaganoush, hummus, matbucha (Turkish salad). After the equally delicious main course, and more wine of course, came dessert, halva, fruit, cake and Ben and Jerry’s!! Grateful that we couldn’t drive on Shabbat (and that everything in the city is walk able) we walk home making my stomach a little more comfortable. After a great night sleep we woke up, and ate again!

In what appeared to be stress free and effortless, Sadie hosted Shabbat lunch for around 30 people.  Though overwhelming at times, I was so thankful to have the opportunity to meet so many people living in Jerusalem. Many had come from the United States and made aliyah (became an Israeli citizen) and become religious. The afternoon was filled with smiles, singing, eating, and in my case learning. I had lots of questions of customs, definitions and translations, and even when I didn’t ask any questions people happily shared their views of Judaism, stories of ancient text and helped me follow along with prayers and songs.

After a quick clean up I need to be outside and move. Luckily Sadie lives right by a fairly large park that I explored for an about an hour, long enough to miss most of the eating of third meal, but still catch some Hebrew songs. After a second round of cleaning up, some more deep discussions of Judaism and some relaxing we headed to yet another meal! I was assured that this would just be tea and coffee, with a possible piece of cake, but turned out to be an entire meal bread, salads, main course and all. The meal was prepared because we joined a friend of Sadie’s to observe her father yartzit (anniversary of his death). Though unnecessary to eat another entire meal, the dinner was very special and I was honored to be a part of it.

Also while in Jerusalem I was able to visit with family whom live on Kibbutz Ramat Rachel in Southern Jerusalem. I feel blessed to be in a new place and still have so much family here to welcome me with open arms, even if I have never met all of them. I am looking forward to returning to Israel and creating stronger relationships with my Israeli family. From what I understand Kibbutz Ramat Rachel is actually one of the last traditional kibbutz in Israel.  At Ramat Rachel they still follow the guiding principal of communalism; dining, laundry, salaries etc. Most other kibbutz in Israel are now just we would consider a gated community or even plain old community that do now have communal facilities, salaries etc.

I had a great pre-program introduction to Israel. And on Sunday my real journey began…